also our article on Hesitation.)
covered in this article -
We'll lead in to this discussion of air inleakage with a question from a reader -
I have a 1973 Type 1 with a 1600cc dual port engine. The distributor is an 009 centrifugal advance. I replaced the left head because it blew out a spark plug. After replacing the head the engine would not idle, so I had the carburetor rebuilt. It runs better but still will not idle correctly - it idles okay, then it speeds up by itself for about 30 seconds. Then it idles down and stalls unless I tap the gas - then it recovers, idles high for a moment and goes to low idle or stalls. I replaced the fuel pump, but no difference.
Rob responded - Your problem sounds like an air leak in the inlet manifold. You have all the classic symptoms - poor/erratic idle, stalling, but runs when you use throttle (the accelator pump gives it extra fuel). Since you replaced the left head the most likely place is the joint between the head and the twin port manifold end-piece. It's sometime hard to get these to sit exactly flat before tightening them down. Some folks find it easier to tighten the nuts there with the engine out of the car, rather than struggling to get a wrench/spanner on to it whilst it's in the car...not enough room. If you need to do it with the engine in the car a wobble drive and socket usually works.
Other possible places are the inlet manifold rubber boot or boots (left and right) and another common place is the throttle shaft - left side usually.
of air into the intake manifold can be an exasperating problem.
This phenomenon occurs because the pressure inside the intake
manifold is lower than atmospheric pressure. If there are
any holes in the manifold or at any of the connection points,
then air can be sucked into the manifold, causing the fuel-to-air
mixture to become too lean. Air being sucked into the intake
manifold can cause -
car acts like it's not getting enough fuel; i.e., running
car may run well at highway speeds, but the engine dies
at idle and will only idle at higher than normal rpm (e.g.,
experience: At 1200 rpm the engine would start
running rough, and below that it would die altogether. We
had to set the idle at 1200 rpm or above just to keep the
engine hesitates and dies when you take your foot off
the throttle, or hesitates when pulling out of corners
at low rpm.
in properly tuning the carburetor (actually tuning will
the carburetor cannot be tuned correctly, the timing cannot
be properly set.
may get engine "looping" (alternating between high and
this regard, Rob has written -- Backfiring in Beetles usually
means running lean. On the overrun, it fails to burn properly
so the exhaust system fills with unburned fuel mix, and
then a successful spark and the hot exhaust gases sets the
stuff in the muffler off with a bang.
inleakage can occur at the following (certainly not all
either or both ends of the carburetor throttle shaft
(as the base of the carburetor);
A carburetor can wear a lot during a quarter century of
use, and one of the major wear points is the throttle
shaft bore hole(s) through the bottom of the carburetor.
An out-of-round throttle shaft bore is often the source
of air inleakage. A worn throttle shaft bore could present
some of the symptoms listed above.
the carburetor/intake manifold flange;
the outer ends of the manifold where it attaches to
the cylinder head;
various points along the intake manifold (e.g., pinoles
rubber connections in the dual-port manifold);
simple oversight, like failure to prevent air from being
sucked into the carburetor and/or the intake manifold
by not plugging the vacuum line(s).
inleakage shows up first in the idle. Inability to set the
idle speed at the specified rpm indicates improper fuel/air
mixture (too lean) or a fault in the ignition system -- usually
Note: It doesn't take much of a leak to affect the performance of the 34 series of carburetors. They seem to be much more touchy than the smaller carburetors (Rob has an original 30PICT/2 with almost 300,000 miles on it and still working well).
are a couple of good tests for air inleakage -
first is the "blip" test. Rev the engine up to about 1500
rpm, then pull the throttle lever back and immediately
release it. If the engine promptly dies, or if it hesitates
whenever the throttle is pulled back quickly, it is likely
that you have air leaking into the intake manifold.
can pin down the location of the air inleakage using the
"starter spray" test. You can use ether-based starter
spray (probably the best) WD40 or even LPGas from an unlit
propane torch. The idea is to use something that is very
volatile and very flammable that can be eaily sucked into
the intake manifold at the leak point. With the engine
idling (whatever it takes), alternately spray both ends
of the carburetor throttle shaft, the carburetor/intake
manifold flange, the outer ends of the manifold, and various
points along the intake manifold. Listen for any increase
in engine speed as the extra "fuel" is sucked into the
system. (Alternator, use a dwell-tachometer to see the
momentary increase in engine speed.)
you get ANY increase in engine speed during this process,
you have an air leak, and you'll never be able to set the
carburetor correctly until you get it corrected.
If you have the carburetor off
the car, look carefully for any excess sideways/up down movement
in the throttle shaft i.e., is it a real sloppy fit in the
carburetor? You should not be able to detect any lateral movement;
if you do, it is likely that air is leaking into the system
at this point, and all of your attempts to correctly set the
fuel/air mixture will be in vain.
A test and temporary
fix: It pays to verify any problem before replacing/repairing the
part. To verify that there is air inleakage around the throttle
shaft, first remove the throttle arm, then clean the area around
the shaft with MEK, acetone or toluene.
When the area is clean and dry,
smear on THIN film of RTV compound (silicone) and allow it to cure.
Make sure the shaft is dry so the stuff will stick, but make sure
the edge of the leaking shaft hole is oiled so it WON'T stick to the shaft.
Put a small fillet of sealant around the shaft - up against
the hole - before putting the the throttle arm back on. The idea
is to make a flexible sealing fillet around the shaft - a temporary
gasket - which would slide round the lip of the hole as the throttle
arm rotates the shaft.
Plan your moves ahead of time and wear disposable gloves--RTV
is messy when smearing.
If this temporarily solves the problem it is good evidence you need to have new throttle shaft bushings installed (re-bush) or replace the carburetor.
A worn bushing where the shaft
comes through the throttle body is not uncommon, and can be
fixed by drilling out the hole and inserting a brass bushing (commonly called "re-bushing"). Re-bushing a throttle shaft bore isn't all that difficult, we're told.
Solex provides kits for this (if you can find them). We've
heard it said that the throttle shaft is the same diameter
as a valve stem, so you can use a piece of valve guide as
the bushing, but we have no first-hand experience with this.
If the throttle shaft is worn, it is likely that the carburetor is worn in other areas as well. An aftermarket replacement carburetor is the best fix for this problem.
Note: See information regarding re-bushing and carburetor replacement below.
Note: Don't forget, a new carburetor is not likely to work perfectly
straight out of the box, particularly if it's a Brosol (Brazilian)
model. From what others have said, it sounds like the Brosol
carburetors need a careful cleaning and tightening up, and
they might need the jets altered to suit your car, etc. Don't
throw out the old carburetor until the new one is running
right. Some parts off of the old carburetor might be useful.
The new Pierburg carburetors are said to be superior, in that they have more precise machining and so on. A while ago Dave purchased one and installed it on his '73 SB. The new carburetor has been working very well, but now, after just under three years of service, it appears to have become worn around the throttle shaft to the point that air is leaking into the intake manifold.
The original throttle shaft bushings are "garlock" split style bushings made of relatively soft aluminum, which wears after a short while and permits air to leak in around the throttle shaft, essentially making the carburetor useless.
A cheaper alternative to buying a new carburetor is to have the carburetor rebushed. Here's what a friend of Dave's who has done carburetor re-bushing has to say -
The problem can be cured by milling out the old aluminum bushings and inserting much better wearing brass bushings. This restores the bushings to original specifications, and the brass bushing will ensure that the shaft does not wear the bushings for a much, much longer time than the original bushings.
Here's a picture of Dave's worn out bushings -
Worn Out Throttle Shaft Bushings
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