- Start the new cable into the tube just to the rear and slightly
inboard of the accelerator pedal. Make sure to have a few rags
handy, then lubricate the cable with grease as you push it into
the tube (grease your fingers and slide the tube between your
fingers as you push it in to the tube).
- Push the cable rearward as far as you can get it, greasing it
all the way along as you go. Hopefully when you go back to the
left rear of the car you will find the rear end of the cable dangling
from the rearward end of the flexible guide tube.
If you have removed the flexible guide tube for any reason, at
this point you will have to push the cable rearward through the
rubber boot and flexible guide tube, then slip the rubber boot
and forward end of the guide tube into place. Make sure the cable
protrudes from the rear end of the guide tube.
- Push the metal tube that runs through the fan shroud into position,
making sure that it properly exits the shroud in front (front
is front). Then make sure that the tube extends through the hole
in the firewall. You will be able to see it right about the top
rear of the transmission, protruding through the rubber seal.
It is difficult to see the end of the tube protruding though the
firewall -- there's so much stuff in the way (and if you wear
bifocals like I do!). It will be above and inboard of the clutch
cable. Also, the rubber over the top of the transaxle (especially
if it is new) may be in the way and prevent the tube from protruding
through. If this is the case, you will have to cut a notch in
the rubber with a sharp knife to allow the tube through (easier
said than done!).
- Guide the accelerator cable into the tube that is protruding
through the firewall. Then flex the guide tube forward and place
the flared fitting on the end of it over the tube that is projecting
through the firewall.
This is quite difficult, considering that the tube through the
fan housing is free to move forward-to-back. If you don't have
an assistant to hold this tube in place, fashion a piece of wood
to place between it and something else in the engine compartment
to keep the tube from moving rearward while you install the flared
fitting on the end of the flexible guide tube over the fan housing
tube. We placed a little block of wood between the end of the
tube, against the fan housing wall, pinned against the vacuum
nozzle on the intake manifold.
- Working in the engine compartment, pull the cable through the
fan housing tube into the engine compartment.
- Move once again to the cabin and reconnect the front fitting
on the cable to the accelerator pedal. There are two types of
fittings on the front end of the accelerator cable:
- The stock S-shaped fitting, which is inserted through the
hole in the pedal lever from the side toward the brake pedal.
Note: If you hook up the S-shaped fitting the other
way (i.e., inserted through the hole from the side opposite
the brake pedal), it will come apart the first time you put
your foot to the accelerator pedal.
is a significantly improved cable ("bulletproof") available from Aircooled.Net.
This cable incorporates a flat-paddle design for attachment to
the accelerator pedal (see the picture below). The paddle simply
bolts to the pedal connection(loosely), with nylon washers and
a Nyloc nut - tight without being tight).
the barrel clamp, loosely connect the accelerator cable to the
bottom of the throttle lever(see the picture below).
Note: The only drawback we see to the stouter "bulletproof" cable is its lack of a solid metal end connector as on the stock cable. Without this, the barrel clamp screws down directly onto the cable, creating a tendency for it to become mangled over time, especially if the carburetor is repeatedly removed. This problem can be overcome through the use of a throttle cable extension kit available from Bugpack.
Make absolutely sure that the barrel clamp rotates freely in its
two holes at the base of the throttle lever. If it doesn't, it
will hang up and cause the accelerator lever to stick, usually
at a high rpm. You may be tempted to tap it into place with a
hammer, but don't do it! If it's that tight, it won't rotate as
the accelerator cable is pulled back and forth, and it will stick.
Take the barrel clamp out and polish it with emery cloth until
it rotates freely in the holes as the base of the throttle lever.
- Have an assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal (or use
a couple of heavy bricks to do it) while you adjust the cable.
With the pedal fully depressed and the cable extended forward,
the throttle lever should be wide open and attached to the cable
such that there is about 1mm of clearance between the throttle
lever and the point where it impinges on the body of the carburetor.
Again, we found a small vice grip necessary to hold the barrel
clamp and cable in place while tightening the bolt in the barrel
throttle arm should move almost 90 degrees from closed to fully
open - when closed it sits almost (not quite) horizontal across
the carburetor throat and when fully open it stands vertically
in the throat. So if you're getting more movement by pulling on
the throttle arm (than the accelerator pedal provides) then the
cable is not properly adjusted.
The Bugpack cable is very long and must be cut to length. Making
sure the choke is open, cut the cable, leaving about one-ince
extra after the barrel clamp. It is recommended that the cable
end be soldered to prevent the cable from unraveling.
Dave uses a throttle cable extender, which attaches to the cable and then goes through the barrel clamp. The screw in the barrel clamp tightens down on the cable extender instead of the cable. Great look, too!
Throttle Cable Extender
Rob just pulls the accelerator cable back finger tight (NOT with
any kind of tool) and then secures it in place with the barrel
clamp, and it works just fine. Here are some details on how that's